#giovedìgelato
As you’ll know if you saw my earlier post about Italian habits, I have just come back from living in Rome for four months as part of a compulsory year abroad for my university degree (a.k.a. second gap year). Before departing for adventure no.2 of the year, I was excited to see old stuff, learn some crazy hand gestures, and most importantly, eat well. I soon realised that all of the items on my checklist would be fulfilled the moment I set foot out of my front door every single day of my stay.
As ‘old stuff’ goes, I’d say my favourite has to be the Column of Marcus Aurelius at Piazza Colonna, which stands part way down the Via del Corso that runs from Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Venezia and the gigantic Vittoriano monument. The column towers majestically above shoppers and tourists, who hardly stop to marvel at the intricate story told by the ascending marble figures.
After only a short while in Rome, I came to the realisation that it is in fact impossible to express oneself without one’s hands. Well, express oneself properly anyway. No ‘ma che?’ (an expression of confusion/outrage/misunderstanding/shock) goes without a frown and a double-handed finger-grouped wrist shake, and joy does not exist without at least one arm raised in the air for celebration. These are a passionate people, and they aren’t shy of showing you exactly how they feel.
Now food. I honestly can’t express how much I miss fairly-priced, handmade, loaded plates of pasta, and pizza by the rectangular slice topped with every cut of ham and cheese under the sun. However, it is with gelato that my heart lies, and it’s yearned for it ever since my return. For 18 weeks I undertook an Instagram project entitled #giovedìgelato, trying out new flavours, gelaterie, and selfie angles every Thursday. And it is with you that I would like to share my top three gelaterie in Rome (and the flavours I chose when I was there).
La Romana, 60 Via XX Settembre
I must have been to this gelateria every week I had guests, or if one of my friends had guests, or if I was passing by on my way home, or if it was hot… any excuse really. They offer you white or dark melted chocolate in the bottom of your cone that comes from a free flowing tap, and a choice of four flavours of cream on top of your piled-high gelato. Flavours include ‘biscotto della nonna’, ‘crema dal 1947’ and ‘zabaione come una volta’, inviting you – and all the other 30 people in the queue – to taste the family history of the place. All this for only €2.50. Why did I ever leave?
My #giovedìgelato flavours: ricotta with caramelised figs, yogurt with honey and hazelnut, dark gianduja chocolate in the bottom of the cone, and zabaione cream on top.
Fatamorgana, 9 Via Lago di Lesina
There are several Fatamorgana around the city, but I like this one by Villa Ada in particular, because it makes the journey into a pilgrimage, and the gelato just that little bit more well-deserved. Every time I went (again, it was a relatively frequent occurrence), there were hoards of children with mothers, fathers and grandparents, clambering over each other in an orderly Italian fashion, somewhere between patient and not so, waiting for their number to be called. With over 70 different flavours, I was secretly pleased I had a little while to wait, otherwise I’d never have been able to make a decision: wasabi chocolate, rice and vanilla, and all of the traditional favourites in between. There’s even a sweet little park just opposite where you can enjoy your exotic choices!
My #giovedìgelato flavours: blackberry, ginger with honey and lemon, and three-spiced chocolate chip. No cream this time.
Come il Latte, 24/26 Via Silvio Spaventa
This little gem is just round the corner from La Romana, and although not quite as busy, it is equally worth a visit. Instead of chocolate in the cone, they dip a decorative waffle in it, so that the chocolate dribbles over your gelato. The choice of flavours is not extensive, but changes with availability of ingredients, which adds an element of excitement to the experience (if it isn’t your first time), and underlines their artisan quality.
My #giovedìgelato flavours: melon, salted caramel with Himalayan rose, and a waffle dipped in dark chocolate.
These gelaterie are all slightly out of town, away from the hustle and bustle of the tourist centres. For more central options try:
nr. Trevi Fountain. San Crispino, 42 Via della Panetteria
nr. Circo Massimo. Il Gelato di Claudio Torce, 59 Viale Aventino
nr. Vatican City. Old Bridge Gelateria, 5 Via Bastioni di Michelangelo
Buon appetito!
Lucy
Che dice la nostra cultura quotidiana di noi?
Today we’re excited to share our first ever bilingual post, written by Lucy, who’s just returned from four months in Rome as part of her university studies. In this post, she talks about a few typical Italian habits she noticed during her time in the city and some of the (slightly surprising) questions she had to answer about British culture.
Don’t speak Italian? There’s an English translation below. And if you’d like to join the conversation, you can do so in the comments or on Twitter – see the end of the post for details.
Benché esistano delle centinaia di diverse abitudini italiane, dal nord al sud, dalle montagne alle coste, almeno si trova una percettibile concordanza di “modi di fare” di base che abbraccia il paese: si mangia la pasta ogni giorno, si offre l’opinione se richiesto o non, e non si telefona mai durante l’ora di pranzo (entro le 1300 e le 1500). Non essendo italiana me stessa, trovavo un po’ strano queste regole seguite persino dai giovani come se fossero ordinate dal Papa. Era solo quando mi sono resa conto che sono imposte invece dalle matriarche che iniziavo a capire le sue importanza. C’è una convivialità e un autentico rispetto per il comportamento che insieme danno un metodo alla follia.
Cercavo di integrarmi bene e cordialmente in queste situazioni, e mi piaceva molto imparare questi “si fa” e “non si fa”. Gradualmente mi abituavo a tenere lo sguardo durante il brindisi, a rivolgermi ai vecchi con “Lei” e non “tu”, e di avere pazienza quando facendo una fila perché non si sa mai quanto lungo sarebbe.
Una delle gioie dell’anno Erasmus e che s’incontra delle persone non solo da diversi paesi ma di varie origini, e si tocca di spiegare le sue proprie radici. Qualche volta è più difficile che abbia mai pensato. Vi lascio una manciata di domande che mi capitavo di rispondere durante le 4 mesi che ho passato in Italia:
Perché gli inglesi mettono la moquette dappertutto nelle case, e poi mettono sopra i tappetti?
Questo mi ha sorpreso perché mi chiedevo quasi ogni giorno il ragionamento dietro la mancanza della moquette nell’appartamento che stavo affittando. Storicamente indovino che fu una mostra di stravaganza perché gli sconti per pulirla dovettero essere esorbitanti. Potrebbe essere anche per aggiungere un po’ di calore nelle stanze.
Perché non apprezzate il vino invece di berlo troppo a causa dei giochi di bevanda?
Sono consapevole della riputazione che noi inglesi abbiamo per l’abuso dell’alcool, e a dire la verità, mi vergogna di questo nostro status mondiale. Pero, difendo questa cultura solo un’iota per porre che almeno non abbiamo paura di essere scemi, e questa propensità gli italiani si manca.
E la pioggia…?
Gli italiani che incontro sembrano di avere una vera inquietudine per la mia salute quando imparano che piove più di una volta alla settimana in Gran Bretagna, anche durante l’estate. Ho anche qualche amico italiano che ha sinceramente basato le scelte di università sul clima. Quando si viene da un paese dove il sole brilla nell’estate e la neve cade nell’inverno, scommetto che sarebbe difficile immaginare qualsiasi altra realtà, ancora meno la timorosa pioggia!
Alla fine del mio soggiorno in Italia, avevo la sicurezza di dare direzioni a una taxista con attenzione risoluta, e di rifiutare con cortesia le proposizioni di una vecchia sull’autobus di una cena con la sua nipote (chi tra l’altro sta studiando per diventare medico). Pero, al momento in cui qualcuno mi dà un pezzo di frutta, non sarò mai in grado di mangiarla con le posate, mi dispiace. Certe consuetudini naturalmente resteranno per sempre entro il paese, ma vi consiglio, ansi vi sfido di immergetevi nella cultura italiana e di imparare qualche maniera nuova – vi prometto che vi farà sorridere!
Avete scoperto un’abitudine intrinsecamente italiana che vi è piaciuto mentre stavate in Italia? Condividerlo con noi, lasciando un commento, oppure su Twitter @EuroTalk #abitudineitaliana
What does our everyday culture say about us?
Although there are hundreds of Italian mannerisms, from north to south, whether in the mountains or at the coast, there is a distinguishable way of doing things that brings the country together: they eat pasta every day, they offer their opinion whether asked for or not, and they never phone anyone at lunchtime (1pm-3pm). Not being Italian myself, I found these rules, followed by young and old alike as if handed down by the Pope, a little difficult at first. It was only when I realised that they were actually imposed by the head of the family (the matriarch) that I began to understand their importance. This culture of conviviality, backed by a genuine respect for courtesy, offers a method to the madness.
I tried my best to integrate myself in these situations, and I really enjoyed learning the “do’s” and “don’ts”. Gradually I got used to looking someone sternly in the eye whilst clinking glasses for a toast, to using the third person singular when addressing someone older than me, and to keeping my patience when queuing for anything, because you can never know how long you’ll be waiting.
One of the many joys of an Erasmus year is that you meet people who are not only from different countries but varied backgrounds, which means you are also tasked with explaining the reason to your rhyme. This is often harder than you’d have ever thought. Here are a few questions that I had to reply to during my four months in Italy:
Why do English people put carpet everywhere in the house, and then put rugs on top?
This question really surprised me because I’d been wondering why there wasn’t any carpet to be seen in the apartment I was living in. I guess that historically, carpet was a demonstration of extravagance because the cost of cleaning them would have been extortionate. It could also be because carpet adds warmth to a room.
Why don’t English people appreciate wine instead of drinking too much of it (for example in drinking games)?
I’m aware of the reputation that us Brits have for abusing alcohol and to tell you the truth, our world-renowned status is embarrassing. However, I’ll defend our drinking culture just an iota by proffering that at least we’re not afraid of looking a bit silly every once in a while, which is a propensity that Italians seem to lack.
And what about the rain…?
Italians that I have met seem genuinely worried for my health when they learn that it often rains more than once a week in the UK, even in the summer. I have a couple of Italian friends who have even based their university choices on the weather. I guess when you come from a country where the sun shines in the summer and the snow falls in the winter, it’s would be pretty difficult to imagine anything different, much less the infamous rain!
At the end of my stay in Italy, I had acquired the confidence to give firm directions to a taxi driver, and to politely decline offers from old ladies on the bus to have their grandson (who as it happens studies medicine) take me out to dinner. However, I’m afraid to say that if someone were to hand me a piece of fruit, I still wouldn’t ever be able to eat it with a knife and fork. Some customs will obviously stay forever within a country, but I recommend or even challenge you to immerse yourself in Italian culture and to learn a new quirk – I promise it’ll make you smile!
Have you discovered any fun intrinsically Italian habits? Share them with us by leaving a comment, or on Twitter @EuroTalk #abitudineitaliana
Lucy
